So I ordered up a goodly amount of new NATO-style gas cans the other day. A reasonable person might ask, “Why do you need so many?”
Like it or not, the world runs on gas and oil. Most of us get our gas the same way – we trundle down to the gas station and fill our cars and gas cans. What can prevent that? Tons of things, man. What shuts down a gas station? Lack of product, outrageous demand, lack of electricity for pumps, curfews, riots, government mandate, etc, etc.
It’s not unreasonable to think that, in even a moderate crisis such as a blizzard or hurricane, your local gas station is going to either have sold out of all their gas, or their pumps aren’t working, or they haven’t been able to get restocked. And that’s assuming that .gov doesnt shut them down to begin with or restrict their sales to .gov organizations only.
But, since I’m sitting in a well-fortified and well-stocked house, why would I need so much gasoline? I’m not going anywhere, right? Well, not if I can help it. But….sometimes things don’t go as planned, for whatever reason, and I might need to be somewhere else. In that case, the last thing I want is to be standing in a crowded line of frightened, panicked, angry people.
But…there’s other reasons to keep a goodly amount of fuel handy. Even if I don’t go anywhere, I’m still going to need gas for the generator. And, depending on the situation and the nature of the relationship with my neighbors, it wouldn’t be a bad thing to be in a position to help them out..if I choose to.
I mean, even if you think that your particular situation is so well squared away that gasoline isn’t a priority for you, for whatever reason…it’s still probably a good idea to have some on hand. Generators, chainsaws, snow blowers, lanterns, four wheelers, water pumps, etc, etc, all need gas. It’d be a little short sighted to think that just because you don’t foresee needing it for a vehicle or a generator you can ignore keeping some around.
Heck, you get a hurricane and your vehicle is outta commission, you gotta have something to offer someone to take you and your gear outta harms way. Being able to gas up someone elses vehicle can go a long way towards getting them to make room in the back for you. Same for generators. Maybe yours craps out or is in the shop. Offer to fuel up the neighbor’s genny and I’ve no doubt he’d let you run an extension cord to your place for your freezer.
So, thats why, for me, buying that many gas cans isn’t a bad idea. The more fuel I have the further I increase my ‘range of safety’ to get away from trouble, the longer I run my generator to keep my freezer going, the more help I can offer to people I deem worthy of helping, etc.
For my needs, those NATO cans are perfect. They seal up tight, don’t ‘breathe’ like plastic cans do, are easier to handle, and take abuse exceptionally well. And, this is important ,guys – these things are only going to be more expensive later, assuming you can find them at all. Two AM by the side of the road in a downpour during a crisis because you thought “I’ll just swing by the Conoco and gas up…I’m sure they still have gas” is a situation easily avoided.
And, of course, if youre going to store gas, do it safely. Store it outside your home in a shed, barn, garage, or under a tarp along the side of your shed. Use a gas stabilizer to keep it from ‘going bad’ (I use PRI-G), and make a note on the can of when you filled it up and make sure to rotate it every year or so.
If you like your gas can spout, you can keep your gas can spout. Unfortunately, .gov had to dick around with things and now the only spouts easily found for gas cans are these insanely stupid non-spill spouts. Screw ’em. I lanyard a funnel to every other can, but it’s easy enough to find the matching spouts for these cans that don’t use those ridiculous shut-off mechanisms that California wound up mandating.
So there you go. Why so many gas cans? Thats why.
Living next to a flaming liberal, I would laugh my ass off if he asked for help. And yes , he doesn’t own guns , but someone else does, just saying.
If you don’t own a gun you’re just collecting gear for someone who does.
Especially when his President is the asshole trying to put the petroleum industry out of business.
And Libtards aren’t pert of the Brotherhood anyway.
Can’t wait for the 5lb cell phones Apple is going to make. Steel case. Very handy. What’s that? Without oil there is no plastic. No fertilizer. No synthetic rubber for tires. Yeah Joey is a tin plated turd genius. Dumb as a post and apt to stay that way.
Typical idiot. No clue about critical thinking. That’s why they are unable to think anything through to a logical conclusion. And then it all blows up in there faces.
I was fortunate enough to be able to get a bunch of surplus GI metal gas cans. Real US mil surp (long gone).
Most were in fair condition, needing at best a shot with some spray paint on the outside, and a new gasket. A few had pretty poor condition interiors, so as I was motivated, I cleaned them out (I bought a cheap sand blaster from Harbor Fright) and cleaned them up, then re-sealed them with tank sealer. ProTip: Pltug the air tube first. Then when the tank is dry, unplug it.
So, lots of 5 gal cans…
But they are kind of a pita to use. Filling a lawn mower or chainsaw from a 5 gallon can is an effort in spillage. I also store fuel products in 55-gallon cans, and in 30-gallon fuel tenders…. in a metal shed, grounded, away from the house. The drums themselves are bonded and grounded, as well. The fuel tenders have hoses and nozzles and a 12vdc pump so filling up equipment is easy.
Another ProTip: Store the drums on their SIDES, with the bungs horizontal to minimize leakage and sucking water into the fuel (even through a closed tight bung). Or, get the plastic drum covers to keep the upright drums water-free.
All my waving cans came with spouts
Original GI cans, FTW.
Spotless, re-painted to factory spec, and sealed. With a plethora of OEM spouts.
The best use for the new Wavian cans I’ve found is to get the 1- and 2-gal. models, for easier transfer and emergencies.
Also a fan of the 30-gal. metal gas caddies (which puts the Mississippi in range without outside supplies).
And a serious lust for a bob-tailed refueler truck, and in-ground tanks, when the opportunity arises. A solid non-commercial tagged E van may get turned into a stealth refueler as it is.
@Flight ER Doc:
Build a tipping cradle that puts the can at -5° of tilt, at about 2′ off the ground, and you only lift it once when full, with great control. It’s the same idea they use for 55.-gal. barrel tippers, scaled down. Metal if you can weld, 2x4s if you can’t. Worst case, build a secure holding frame onto an old rocking chair with the back removed, or a frame mounted between two bicycle tires. Same idea. Neighbor built one about chest high, to tank up his donorcycles.
Only thing better would be a screw-in can plug with one of the caddy gas pump handles at the end of a couple feet of gas hose mated onto it. First guy that sells one of those, I’ll take three of ’em.
or you could just get one of these
https://www.harborfreight.com/battery-operated-liquid-transfer-pump-63847.html
You could. But unlike batteries, gravity never goes dead.
Physics FTW. 😉
Got one more like this;
https://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200612558_200612558
I was going to suggest the same thing. True, they’re battery operated, and won’t work once the batteries are dead or unavailable. That’s when spouts and funnels will come into play. Until then, give these things a try! They actually work quite well. You’ll lose less fuel to spillage and with save your back! They’re also GREAT for filling kerosene heaters without making a mess!!!
I had purchased one of these pumps on Amazon a year ago. It ran me $65.00 and started leaking with only a few hours of use transferring kerosene. For the $11.00 and change Horror Fright charges for these things, you can buy several and squirrel them away. If they die, meh… Toss is and grab another one!
Metal gas cans do go through expansion/contraction daily, and will eventually metal fatigue and leak, often around those pressed designs in the sides. I used to carry a 5-gallon metal can on the back of my CJ-5, and noticed it was weeping gas from the sides because of micro-cracks that had formed where the metal flexed the most. Not too long after (it was 1979 and in the middle of a gas crisis) someone stole it from the vehicle. I just hope they took it home and let it burn their house down.
I seriously doubt that was a true mil-surp can in good condition to have such an issue. You have to pay attention to the ad headers and price. If you see “NATO Style” 5 gallon cans for $30, they are junk. The welded seam on the real deal is recessed allowing it to stand upright, but it sticks out on the knockoffs making them tippy. The good ones are made of heavier gauge metal. The cap on the cheapies will bend when you try to secure it and the spout seal leaks. My former neighbor got sucked in and bought a couple and was sorry he did.
You’re wrong. It was a US milspec 5-gallon gas can. Very heavy, screw-on metal cap. But hey, you believe what you want, Sparky.
Was it the old style with the rolled seam around the bottom and screw in spout? Those were notoriously bad and mainly engineered for short term use,german jerry can engineering was light years superior 70+ years ago.
Never spilled more gas then when I have tried to use the new spill-proof spouts. With those cans I take the cap completely off and use a funnel. Works much better. Whoever designed those needs to be reassigned to manual labor. No business being in engineering.
I very nearly set fire to a truck hauling heavy equipment once, using one of those stupid ‘”safety” cans.
Trailer had a hydraulic ramp at the rear, powered by a gasoline-fueled pump. Back in the “unsafe” days we used the basic US GI 5 gallon cans with the “donkey dick” spout. Fast, simple, easy, etc. Never a spill or other problem. Then the directive came down from on high that we needed to update all of our fuel cans to the “safer” CARB-approved sorts. Within a few months we had multiple fuel spills, including gasoline spilling all over a still-hot pump engine.
But of course there was no going back to the sensible time-proven way of doing things. The bureaucrats — who it’s safe to assume had never once tried refilling a fuel tank at 0230 in the boondocks in a snowstorm — had spoken. Or sent out memorandum with copious citations of Californian seat-warmer nonsense at any rate. And they obviously knew better than the folks who were actually using the gear in the real world.
Good analysis and info on gasoline storage.
Just a thought, there are a number of dual fuel(gasoline & propane) and some trifuel(gasoline, propane, & natgas) generators. Save the gasoline for those things that only run on it. Propane may be more easily obtainable in an emergency and lasts almost indefinitely. The only downside with propane might be in extreme cold, then go for the gasoline. New 20lb propane cylinders are a little less expensive than quality 5G gasoline cans and fairly portable. There are also a number of larger portable propane tanks as well. With an adapter gizmo, the 1lb cylinders can be refilled from the 20lb tanks. Mr. Heater makes a number of portable heaters designed to be used with the 1lb or 20lb tanks. These could be used for backup heat and are safe to use indoors.
Champion generators, a favorite with RVers, have a number of dual fuel inverter generators which are very quiet. There are also conversion kits available for generators that are gasoline only but probably better to go with the dual fuel design for easier use.
Check the local garbage dump /”transfer station.” People toss perfectly serviceable 20lb propane tanks all the time, often with a lot of fuel still in them. Can’t be landfilled, nor recycled until someone goes through and makes sure they’re empty, so they are often set-aside until the management gets around to dealing with them. If the cylinder has gas in it, use it until it’s empty. Then swap it for a filled one at one of the usual places for buying propane (big box stores, hardware stores, groceries, etc) — likewise with empty ones if they’re in good shape. Much cheaper than paying $30 or so for a new cylinder.
The hack that shut down gas supply in Georgia really brought home the need to have several of these on hand. I had one, now I have 5, and will probably get a couple more.
70 gallons in NATO cans rotated yearly (Pri-g rocks), 80 gallons in the RV tank, 40 gallons +- in the cars, and yes, a special 12 volt pump to get it out. Not one, not two, but three generators, because… One to lend, one for back-up. Not to mention the RV on-board 4k for emergencies. Cords and cables, plugs and converters as needed, staged. You simply can’t have too much gas, or power sources. Hurricanes are my storm issue. While I’m semi-rural, civil unrest or loss of electricity making fuel inaccessible is a bigger concern.
Just an example of how well made these types of fuel cans are; a neighbor’s house caught fire and almost burned to the ground. He had three Wavian cans filled with gasoline on the back porch, along with an oxygen and acetylene tank. The oxygen and acetylene tanks exploded, it a terrific explosion. However, the Wavian type cans did not explode, they only had bulged the sides outward and had all the paint burned off, but no explosions from the Wavian NATO cans. He does believe the rubber gaskets melted and relieved the pressure from the heat, but the cans did not explode.
I have stored gas filled wavian cans in my home for many years. Literally in a spare bedroom. Never a wisp of fumes could be smelled ever. I wouldn’t do that with plastic cans, but genuine wavian cans are legit and safe. Temp range from 100F down to 40F fluctuation and all was good. Now if you CAN safely store them outdoors without fear of theft, etc then go for it. But I speak from years and years of personal experience when I say it’s ok to keep GENUINE wavian cans indoors. Ymmv naturally.
As a former firefighter, this is insane and stupid. Dangerous not only to you, but more importantly dangerous to whoever may respond to a fire in your home.
If you can’t store therm outside due to concerns about theft, then you need to address that issue rather than doing something stupid and reckless in order to protect a small investment in fuel cans and fuel.
You stored gasoline in your HOUSE??? I’m assuming you also use candles on your REAL Christmas tree… Yeah; storing gasoline in your house is THAT INSANE!!! You are living proof that God looks after drunks, fools, and small children…
We have a supply of gas too. Major winter storm about 12 years ago knocked out power lines, downed trees on all roads. Deliveries to gas stations were delayed, no power for the stations to run either. Took about 4 days for the local station to get operational. Most of us lost power for 2 weeks. Ran the generator every day, plus chain saws to clear the blockage, and needed stored fuel for vehicles too.
The USGI Steel “Jerry” Cans were replaced by Sceptre Brand (made in Canada) Ultra-High-Density Polyurethane cans of 20-Liter (an extra Quart) and I transitioned to them over the past 20 Years or so, after most of the 25 Steel GI Cans either Rusted inside or Cracked at the Seams. The Plastic Cans take the same Clamp-On USGI Spout, and are noticeably lighter to Lift to Pour. The Sceptre Cans are hard to find as “Surplus”, New ones can be had from the Manufacturer, but with shipping push $100 a pop. Best thing about them is they can be CLEANED effectively, using Soap and Hot Water.
A better way to store Bulk Fuel is get some 100-Gallon Aluminum Tanks from a Truck Junkyard. they are O.K. with small Dents and Scratches (check carefully for Cracks) and don’t use one where a Scratch has Gouged Up the Metal, even slightly. Make a Cradle at least 4 Feet High, and then you can run the Fuel into a Can from the Drain Valve (check for Water every Time).
Also, anyone who contemplates full-on Mad-Max conditions needs a Good, USA-Made 12-Volt Transfer Pump; 20 Gallons-a-Minute rated. Put it on a Portable Frame or Hand Truck, have 30-Foot Cables to connect to a Vehicle Battery, and Lots of Hose, 20-Footers with the Camloc Quick-Couplers like the Fuel Truck guys use.
Those aluminum tanks from trucks are designed for diesel and must be vented (expansion and contraction, much less gasoline vapor pressure will crack them). They are also not very abrasion resistant. If you can locate some OLD steel saddle tanks they would work but are OLD and probably very used up. A better option would be a tank designed to be mounted in a pick up bed and rated for gasoline.
You’re correct- I have nothing but Diesel Trucks/Equipment, so I didn’t think of Gasoline. Automotive Skid Tanks can be had with Gasoline-Rated Venting and Pumps, but for Gas, DON’T use those cheep chinamart pumps sold at Harbor Freight, Tractor Supply, etc. They might be O.K. for Diesel, but if you want to Pump Gas, it better be a UL-Listed “Explosion-Proof” one. And your Hoses need to have Embedded Ground Wires, too.
p.s. for storing Diesel, you need a Biocide, not a “Fuel Stabilizer”. It’s the Algae that grows in the boundary between the Fuel and the Water (there’s always Water).
Best thing for this is “Biobor”, the Aviation-Grade stuff I’ve used in Jets and Turbine Helicopters.
Acetylene and other high pressure tanks have pressure relief valves. If a tank of Acetylene had exploded you probably would not be telling that story.
CZ, I ordered a set of those cans and ordered a spout that appears to be nato spec,if it is it is the real solution with proper venting,no spill and can empty the can into a vehicle in about 90 seconds and comes with a mount for the can. I can report back after testing new arrivals.
I prefer storing my gasoline and diesel in 55-gallon drums in the pass-through of my barn, and using crank pumps to dispense the fuels. I have the drums sitting on cinder blocks to keep them from rusting underneath, and loosely chained to the wall for earthquake protection. True, not everyone can or should store fuel this way, but it works for me. I keep the fuel fresh by cycling it through my tractor and “yard equipment.” I put in around 2.5 gallons of fresh gasoline per week. I do have various 5-gallon cans stored dry. If I need to G.O.O.D or if one of the drums starts to leak, I can quickly transfer the fuel to the cans.
Don’t forget your propane stores, folks. Having seven or eight tanks sitting around won’t do you any good if only one or two are full. Runs on Propane don’t need the S to HTF to happen. All you need is one cold night! I went to fill a barbecue bottle this morning and two of the three places I went to were out of propane. The third had that ONE EMPLOYEE IN TOWN who actually checked the date on my tank and wouldn’t fill it because it “expired” last year… Indeed, that was the FIRST PERSON to check that date in the last twenty years!!! Luckily, this was a recent freebie I picked up and wasn’t yet filled for my stores, so it was a net-zero loss…