I see by the note on the refrigerator that its time to buy more batteries. For the longest time I’ve tried to standardize batteries. The commonly used sizes are AAA, AA, D and 9v (which probably do have a letter designation…Im just not feeling its particularly necessary at the moment). Theres also those nifty little lithium batts which are, I believe, designated CR123. (And, yeah, theres the AAAA and other size batts but the operative word here is ‘commonly’.)
I have tried to streamline my battery needs to just ‘D’ and ‘AA’. There are things in the house, such as tv remotes and smoke detectors, that run on different sized batts but for the preparedness stuff I try to limit it to those two sizes. (The one glaring exception is the damn Seismic Intrusion Detectors which run on 9v. but I could always rig something up, I suppose…) Makes it easier to store spares and allows more interchangeability if I have to ‘borrow’ batteries from one device to run another. (Which has happened…a few months back I discovered my GPS batts were dead and I took the 4 AA’s outta my Streamlight. Since then, I carry six spare AA batts in my bag. An empty Altoids tin, lined with bubble wrap, holds six spare AA batts securely. The bubble wrap keeps em quiet and keeps em from grounding out on the metal case.)
Unfortunately, my perfect world of Only Two Battery Sizes has been disrupted by the need for the lithium CR123’s to power me and the girlfriends tactical lights. On the bright side, they don’t need replacing that often since they are infrequently used and the spares will keep a nice long time.
I’ve been very taken with the lithium AA’s and use them in my GPS and radios. Flashlights get along just fine on run of the mill Duracells. (Esp. with the LED models of lights that have lower power requirements.) Being much more tolerant of extreme temperatures, they are an excellent choice for flashlights that youre going to leave in your truck all summer/winter. Lithium 9v can be found at Home Depot for use in smoke detectors. Still having difficulty finding lithium D’s anywhere but online. And, yeah, theyre spendy but they have a shelf life of ten years with minimal power loss and can handle being left in a glove compartment all winter…that’s worth it to me.
I’ve been buying Duracell AA and D batteries up at Costco in 36 and 24 packs, respectively. I try to keep at least one or two packages on hand at all times and as I go through batteries, I use up the stored ones. In this way they get rotated out and I always have at least one pack of reasonably fresh ones available.
Rechargeables are, of course, an option. Rechargeables, however, are only a good idea when you have a means to recharge them and most circumstances when Im likely to be going through batteries are circumstances where electricity is probably not available. Fortunately the internet is full of DIY solar battery charging plans and these are in the future at some point. Then again, I’ve got several Baygen radios and lights stocked away as well so battery recharging is a fairly low priority. For extended power loss situations its worth getting into, but for the short term (less than a week) I figure Im served with a couple dozen extras.
There are also, by the way, battery ‘inserts’ that let you use a smaller size battery in your gear. They let you use C in a D, AA in a C, etc, etc. Usefull for when youre scrounging batteries but a simple grasp of basic electronics tells you that some wire and electrical tape will let you rig any AA, C, D or 9v. device to run off different batteries.
Fortunately, most of the really cool toys run on AA or D…big MagLites, MiniMags, FRS radios, portable AM/FM radios, etc, etc. The small Photon microlights run on small ‘coin’ batteries but I’ve yet to actually run down the battery in one. At $5 per light its almost cheaper to just have extra lights rather than extra batteries for it. On the other hand, I could always cannibalize batteries for it out of a digital watch.
So, if you’ve got a handful of ‘essential’ electronic gizmos that run on batteries you might wanna think about getting them all on board in the battery compatability department.
Interesting observations, all good advice.
Some comments from my time working for Uncle Sam:
1) The generic Costco 48 packs of AAs are significantly cheaper than Duracell or Energizer. I’ve found them to work quite well in items like GPS, radios (or both in the case of the Garmin RINO) and flashlights, though I’m not sure how well they’d handle under high-drain devices, though they are cheap.
2) For everyday use items, you really cannot beat rechargeable. Energizer makes a fantastic charger that’ll charge AAs and AAAs in 15 minutes, and tops ’em off a bit more slowly. Very handy for digital cameras, frequently used flashlights like my AA Maglights, and other frequently used, non-critical electronics like my “everyday” GPS. The cost of the batteries is modest, but for every day use, frequently pays for itself. I even use them in my TI-89 calculator, as I ALWAYS have its batteries go dead without any AAAs around — now I just pop them in the charger, and away I go.
3) At the risk of sounding like a hippie, save up your old batteries and recycle them. See http://www.rbrc.org/ for information on recycling rechargeable batteries of all types — most electronics stores like RadioShack, BestBuy, and a lot of cell phone shops will take rechargeable batteries and old cellphones to recycle. Talk to your local waste disposal agency about recycling or disposing of alkaline or lithium batteries — they can’t be recycled the same way as rechargeables, but some communities accept them.
Other than extended shelf lives, what properties do lithium batteries have? Are they particularly long lasting when under load? Do they trigger “low battery” warnings like alkalines (rechargeables, for the most part, do not — they cut off rather unexpectedly)?
The one thing that stands out is from the spec sheet for my Eotech 552s. Expected batter life (AA) is, and I quote, “AA batteries: 600 hours, AA Lithium: 1100 hours’.
I’m not sure if they have the same extended runtime in other gear, but I’m going to be keeping some lithium AA packs with my night vision, IR laser, Eotechs, etc.
I recommend NiMh rechargeables for everyday use and lithium for backup, cold weather, and extended storage, since NiMh self-discharge during storage and periods of disuse. I use Alkaline for low-drain, long life applications like wireless thermometers and TV remotes, because they don’t self-discharge like NiMh and can sit unused longer.
SG has 40 packs of Rayovac AAs for around $13.50 for those times when Nicad/NiMh aren’t practial.
I just purchased a new gun safe (Cannon/American Eagle 24 from Cabelas). I hummed and hawed over it as nearly all the ones I looked at had battery powerd electronic entry. I’m hoping there is some manner of override if the batteries go out–but on the other hand I would much rather pound out a few numbers on a key pad than try and deal with a dial if it were an emergency.
Usually there’s a means of removing the keypad and accessing a manual keyhole underneath it. Not sure about your particular safe — read the manual before breaking stuff. 🙂
new batteries
often have the best luck at bargain and discount stores after xmas, especially cr123’s as many children need even exotic types to power their new toys ans gizmos. unfortunatly new batteries can develop “LEGS”
espeially “AA” which power a lot of womens special toys. so putting in secure draw with good hasp and paddlock is not a bad recomendation there. you might wanrt to check out radio shack and others for dc to dc converters to power off a 12 volt auto battery. stay charged, Wildflower 06