Cardboard ammo boxes

Years and years ago, back when I ordered my reloading stuff from Midway, I got a deal on some surplus cardboard military .45 ACP ammo boxes. If youve never seen one, they are small tray-like boxes that hold 50 rounds. The end flaps fold over into the rows of ammo to keep tings somewhat stable. Military ammo used to be packed like this for quite a while…no idea if it still is. Here’s an image of the military style box. For my needs, this was a handier way of storing things rather than a bulkier styrofoam-tray-n-box. My anticipated need is to be abble to grab a box of ammo and stuff it into a bag or pack and not worry about discarding/losing a $1 plastic ammo box. Basically, I wanted a disposable ammo box.

Some aftermarket versions of these things show up from time to time but they aren’t very common and they are usually limited to just the .45 ACP caliber. While .45 ACP is an okay caliber (it isnt a death ray, contrary to what the dinosaurs think), my autopistol logistics revolve around 9mm, mostly. So, where do I find boxes for the 9mm?

,Rawles over at SurvivalBlog had a link the other day to these guys. Who not only sell the pistol ammo cardboard boxes, but also ones for the usual Evil Black Rifle calibers. Heck, I’ll risk a few bucks and get some to try out. Ordered up some 9mm, 45, 40 and .308 boxes. When they get here I’ll try ‘em out and give you my impressions. I hope they’re a good product, they’d make storing ammo a bit more convenient and cheaper since at $0.20 each I can afford to repackage a large amount of ammo and throw away the boxes without guilt. If these work out, I’ll probably be getting a lot of these.

Convenience packaging – batts at CostCo

One of the basic things about preparedness that youre just going to have to get used to is that you wind up buying things in two sizes: huge, gigantic, Costco-sized containers/quantity or tiny, itty-bitty single-serve sizes in giant quantity.

Why the disparity? Well, when youre hunkering down at your home or retreat you have no problem dipping a tablespoon or two of ketchup out of your gallon jug. But if youre out in the field, sleeping in your car, or otherwise living out of your pack, you’ll be better served with those little fast-food packet sized offerings.

Problem is, the smaller you get to a quantity of a product, the higher the premium (usually). For example, if you bought a five-gallon pail of mustard and you then bought a case of fast-food packets that added up to five gallons you’d see that, almost certainly, the packets cost more on a cost-per-ounce basis than the bucket.

This is understandable, naturally,  because while the empty five gallon bucket costs more than the empty foil packets, the five gallons of mustard only needed one bucket…the five-gallons of packets, however, required about a thousand individual foil packets and were probably more  resource-intensive to fill – thus, higher price per unit.

Are there times when the convenience of the packaging is enough to offset the increased cost? Sure. Take that condiment example I just gave.

I mention this because I was up at CostCo to day and stumbled across these:

IMG_0850

They are a ‘bulk’ package of Duracell batteries that are broken down into ‘matchbooks’ of four batteries. Each smaller cardboard box contains four AA or AAA batteries. Why is this handier than the bulk packages? When I grab a handful of batteries to throw in a pack I always have to put the batteries into some type of holder or tape them together as a bundle. Doing t his keeps the battery contacts from shorting out against each other or other metallic items in my pack. This packaging helps to prevent that – just grab a box of four and toss it in the bag. Additionally, we all have ‘junk drawers’ with loose batteries floating around…this solves that problem neatly. Now, obviously, if youre disciplined and organized enough, you can do this sort of thing on your own; no need for a pre-packaged solution. But some fast math showed me that in this particular case not only is there no increased cost, the batteries were actually $0.25 cheaper for the entire package than if I had bought the bulk battery packages. So: no added cost for convenience packaging.

If youre the kinda guy whose particular flavor of apocalypse includes ‘trade goods’ and bartering (or giving away your hard-earned gear as ‘charity’) then this sort of packaging definitely has some attraction. For setting up small caches or bugout kits these would also be convenient choices. My only complaint is that AAA-batts are not something we have much need for…we standardized around D-, AA- and CR123-batts. To be fair, though, I do keep a  very small quantity of AAA batts on hand for some non-preparedness toys we keep around like remote controls, tiny LED lights, etc.

Not sure if this is a CostCo-specific item, a temporary ‘test market’ type of packaging or what but it seems like something that would be handy.

Battery cases

In an effort to keep things as streamlined as possible, we try to keep the variety of battery sizes to a minimum. In a perfect world there’d be just two sizes – D and AA. Unfortunately the higher end stuff like the SureFire lights and a few other geegaws require CR123 batts. Ok, I can make peace with that. But I draw the line at three. I refuse to get sucked into having to keep those and 9v and AAA and C and coin-size, etc, etc.

Usually, spare batteries are stored in their original packaging, in bulk, with all the other long-term gear. However, there is always the need to carry spare batteries around when away from home. Problem is, with all the usual gear rattling around in my bag or pack there’s a good chance any batteries thrown in there will wind up contacting something (or each other, even) and shorting out. Obviously, some type of protective container is called for.

The gear I carry around runs on either AA or CR123 batts, so I usually carry spares in those two sizes. (About the only thing we have that uses D-batts are MagLites, seismic intrusion sets, and field phones..none of which I normally carry around with me.) I used to just throw a couple wraps of duct tape or electrical tape over the terminals of the battery, bundle them together, and leave it at that. It works, but it isn’t perfect. I later discovered that an Altoids tin makes an excellent case for AA batteries if you insulate the metal with a thin layer of bubble wrap. That woeked quite well for a number of years. But, I’m just never content to leave things as they are.

For keeping a handful of AA and CR123 in one place, I very much like this little gem from Maxpedition:

Carrier and pouch for AA & CR123 by Maxpedition

Carrier and pouch for AA & CR123 by Maxpedition

Each chamber of the carrier has small ribs inside to allow two different sizes of battery – AA or CR123. The two colored halves of the carrier slide apart so you can split them between two different size batteries or separate dead from fresh batteries. The carrier slides into the nylon pouch which secures shut with Velcro. The pouch has webbing on the back to attach to gear. All in all, a very handy and convenient way to carry spare batteries. Is it perfect? Sadly, no. The biggest drawback is that while it offers a great deal of protection, it isn’t waterproof. Oh sure, it’d take a heck of a dunking to get past the pack its carried in, into the nylon case, and then seep into the plastic carrier…but, it could happen. So whats a little more secure?

SureFire makes a spare carrier thats quite nice. It only holds four batteries though, butit waterproof and has a lanyard attachment. Unfortunately it is specific to the CR123 batts. On the side of overkill, County Comm sells these truly awesome battery carriers (AA , AAA, CR123) that, although not cheap, are about as bombproof as I think you could get. If I’m ejecting from a damaged aircraft over Afghanistan, I want the batteries for my distress strobe carried in these things.

While these are all fine protective cases for keeping batteries safe and available until they are needed, there seems to be no such protection for D-batteries. Usually the only thing I have that runs on D-batts are MagLites, seismic intrusion detectors, and field phones. Still, when I keep a MagLite in the truck it would be nice to have some way to keep spare batteries on hand in a convenient and protected manner. If I had to guess, I would say the reason I cant find such a piece of gear is because the smaller batts like the AAA,AA, and CR123 are for pieces of gear that are truly ‘pocket sized’ and thus the need for a spare battery carrier. Anything that runs on D-batts is usually large and bulky and therefore probably being hauled around with bunches of other gear…so youre supposed to just throw your spare batteries in there, I guess. Who knows? But if anyone knows of a similar battery carrier to the ones mentioned, sized for D-batteries, I’d like to hear about it.

FMJ v. (premium) JHP

Ammo is, naturally enough, a topic that comes up in the preparedness forums fairly often. Skipping past the usual “what caliber should I have for my SHTF pistol” nonsense, one of the more common questions is what type of ammo to keep around. Should you go long on the FMJ/Ball ammo or stock up on the JHP and ‘Personal Defense’ stuff?

I go long on the FMJ/Ball stuff, and keep a very small fraction of our stockpiled centerfire ammo as JHP’s.

Most military ammo is FMJ, right? So for the calibers where surplus military ammo is available we wind up with a lot of FMJ. Nothing wrong with that. Pretty much any rifle bullet, FMJ or not, traveling at a couple times the speed of sound will radically change someone’s immediate plans. In handguns the majority of our autopistol ammo is FMJ with probably less than 20%  as JHP or ‘defense’ ammo. Why? Couple reasons.

Although we have a decent amount of thundertoys on hand, there is no guarantee that the guns we’ll have will be our own guns. Might pick up a 1911 someone trades to for some freezedrieds, might come across an SKS in someones garage, might find a repairable Mosin Nagant in the back of a wrecked pickup truck. In short, you never know what guns you may stumble across. FMJ or Ball ammo is the ‘Type O-  Universal Donor’ of bullet styles. If a gun won’t work with quality FMJ ammo it probably won’t work better with anything else. (Of course, I’m sure there’ll be comments from folks saying they used to own a gun that bobbled every FMJ but shot hollowpoints perfectly. May be, but broadly speaking if a gun can’t handle FMJ it’s probably not going to do great with the more unusual bullet shapes like the hollowpoints or softpoints.)

“But..but..if you use FMJ ammo you’ll be giving up stopping power!” Well, maybe. But while FMJ may (or may not, depending on whose studies you review) have less stopping power than an FMJ, I can guarantee you that FMJ has more stopping power than JHP that nosedived into the feed ramp.

Interestingly, there is a happy medium in this ballistic mess. Years ago Federal came out with the very odd concept of an expanding FMJ. A contradiction of terms? The bullet has the profile of an FMJ but the front of the bullet, under the jacket, is filled with marshmallow or some similar gunk. The round feeds like an FMJ but when it hits something it compresses and expands like a softpoint of JHP. Very cool. Sadly, not something I can afford to stockpile in bulk. However, it seems like a wonderful choice for folks who are shooting something that can be finicky about bullet shapes. Cough*1911*cough.

The personal defense grade handgun ammo isn’t cheap. Where I can stock 9mm FMJ all day long at around $0.12@, stuff like HydraShocks, SCT, XTP or even Silvertips are going to be prohibitively expensive for anything other than a few hundred rounds. For carrying around day-to-day, I have some snazzy hollowpoints in the Glock, but once they’re gone it’ll be a diet of 115 gr. FMJ. On the other hand, to have shot off all the defensive hollowpoint ammo would mean that there must have been one amazing post -apocalyptic episode.

If I had the money, I’d do an even mix of FMJ and JHP. Hmm…lemme grab a catalog and do some comaprisons….

  • Federal American Eagle 9mm is $0.22@ vs. Federal Hydra Shock 9mm at about $1@…
  • Win. USA Brand 9mm is $0.34@ vs. SX JHP at $0.76@….
  • Rem. UMC 9mm is $0.32@ vs. Golden Sabre at $0.96@…
  • Speer Blazer 9mm is $.021@ vs. Gold Dot @ $1.05@….

So at its most generous, youre looking at around 2x the price for defense-grade pistol ammo and in a worst case almost 5x the price. Or, put another way, five cases (5000) of American Eagle FMJ will cost you one case (1000) of HydraShocks. So, for my money, I could have 1000 rounds or 5000 rounds. Easy to say I’ll take the FMJ when you put it that way. But, honestly, I would go for a mix of something like 20:80 of premium JHP:FMJ.

Now, where it gets really interesting is when you start reloading. I’ve a lovely Dillon 1050 and delaer pricing with the bullet companies. My cost difference on 5000 JHP for reloading versus 5000 FMJ for reloading is about, mmmm, maybe seven cents a bullet…meaning that to assemble a 9mm FMJ is $0.12 versus about $0.20 for a quality JHP. Or, put another way, I can reload JHP ammo with ‘brand name’ defensive hollowpoints (Gold Dots, XTP, etc) for about the same cost as buying loaded FMJ ammo.

Even with those numbers, I tend to stock FMJ in far greater quantities than JHP. My two reasons are primarily concerns about functionality in a very wide variety of platforms, and getting the most ‘bang for my buck’ – I want to maximize the amount of ammo my dollar gets me. At the same time, I recognize that ammo performance isnt to be disregarded and try to keep enough high-end ammo on hand to keep our favorite daily carry guns stoked for quite a while.

There ya go. Your mileage may vary.

They’re going this way so Im going that way

Seen “The Hunger Games” or read the book yet? Theres a scene where these people are all thrust into an arena, a short distance away from a pile of weapons and supplies, and when the start signal is given the competitors jump off their starting blocks and run for this mound of goodies. Naturally, the fighting is bloody and furious as everyone tries to take what they need. The heroine is given the advice that when this moment happens, and the starting gun goes off,  she should immediately turn and run the other way, put some distance behind her and let the other competitors kill each other.

This is probably sage advice for any disaster situation. When Katrina is flooding your city do you really want to be prowling the darkened aisles of WalMart with three hundred other desperate (and dangerous) people? Or in line at the gas station with dozens of other drivers, jockeying for position in line, screaming and threatening each other?

This is one of the reasons I try to keep plenty of everything on hand. When a crisis occurs that forces you into your stockpiles, it’s probably a severe enough crisis that you very much do not want to be at WalMart, the hospital, a gas station, gun store or supermarket. In fact, not only do you not want to be there you would probably be better off not being anywhere close and giving such places a wide berth.

That’s not just good old-fashioned misanthropy talking…it’s fact. Being around a large group of unprepared people, in a crisis, at a location that they deem as having items critical to their well-being, is a recipe for ugliness. Remember the scene in the forgettable remake of War Of The Worlds where Tom Cruise’s character is mobbed by the crowd because he has a working vehicle? It’s like that.

This is something of a staple in survival fiction…at some point a character will go to a hospital, or a military base, or a supermarket, and find it is overflowing with people and the author will then go on to describe the chaos as our character wanders around, surprised at peoples less-than-civilized behavior or at the terrible tragic scene unfolding before them.

First rule of  disaster survival is don’t be there. We know, with utter certainty, that when they predict a hurricane or blizzard there’s going to be a run at the gas station and the supermarket. Why would you go to these chokepoints if you didnt have to? You wouldn’t, right? So it seems it would make sense to have what you need on hand so you don’t need to visit one of these gladiatorial environments. Really, if it was the middle of a disaster, and you had a full tank of gas in your truck, and I said “Hey, wanna go to the gas station and get more gas?” would think that was a good idea? No? So why wouldn’t you take the steps to make sure you don’t have to do that?

Naturally, someone will say that they aren’t worried about it because they’ll wave their Mosin Nagants in the air and send folks running while their alpenflage-clad ‘team members’ go and ‘secure the perimeter’ so they can get what they need without fuss from ‘the sheeple’. You know, that sounds great in an online fiction forum somewhere but wouldn’t it have made more sense while stocking up on the 7.62x54R and surplus East Bloc web gear to just stock up on the other stuff as well so you don’t even have to leave your travel trailer and take those risks? And, yes, there’s risks because even if you and four of your buddies put on your best mall-ninja outfits and head to the WalMart parking lot feeling like the one-eyed man in the world of the blind you are still, most likely, going to find that you weren’t the only one ordering from Century Arms International that year.You don’t really think that in a crisis of that kind of intensity folks are going to leave the house unarmed, do you? Of course not. And it only takes one desperate person with a HiPoint to turn the parking lot into a scene from Heat. So why not avoid the hassle and just stock what you need so you don’t even have to be there?

Hey, don’t get me wrong…theres a time and a place for getting all “Red Dawn” with your buddies, but the parking lot of the local Krogers isnt it.

Canned goods preservation and inspection

Two things I saw on the interwebz came to mind recently. The first was a video from a fella who was storing, among his long-term food, cardboard containers of salt. Over time the salt wound up causing damage to nearby cans of food, as the cans rusted from the salt’s corrosive effects.

Over at ,Rawles’ SurvivalBlog there was a link to a commercial package for sealing up your #10 cans of food to help preserve the can from enviromental damage.

Considering the amount of faith, food and expense that we sink into canned goods, it only makes sense to try and preserve the cans from damage. I had a can of food from the LDS cannery that someone gave me a few years back. The entire can was a rough brown color/texture as the material on the exterior of the can had started to oxidize. However, that can had previously been stored in a more humid environment than the arid mountain desert-like environ that is western MT. (I opened the can, because I was curious to see if there had been any damage to the contents….the interior of the can was perfect and shiny but that simply means the decay hadn’t yet advanced enough to eat all the way through the material. What it did mean, though, was that although the exterior of a can may be ugly and look compromised, the contents might be okay…..but why take chances?) I have #10 cans of food in storage that have been there since pre-Y2K and they’re fine. How do I know? Because I inspect stuff.

Every bucket of food, and every box with a six-pack of #10 cans, gets inspected several times a year. Usually twice, sometimes more if I’m bored. An inspection involves opening up the outer packaging, checking the interior contents for leakage, spillage, decay, or other damage. If things check out (and they have so far) things get sealed up again and the box, or the hang tag on the bucket, is stamped with an inspection date.

The very low humidity environment here means that, really, twice a year inspections are plenty for most gear.

How do you preserve a #10 can in an environment that isn’t as friendly as the one I’m in? Well, I have no experience doing it, but I’ve read of a couple options. One method involves melting parafin and either dunking the can in it, or ‘painting’ it onto the bare metal of the can. The waxy coating protects the metal surface from moisture. Obvious drawback is the mess and that you have to remove the labels from the cans.

Any other options? Well, this is speculation, but…… I suppose you could put each can into a vacuum-seal bag, drop in a package of dessicant, and seal it up. That would protect the can from the environment, take care of any moisture in the bag, and it’d be much easier to process than dunking cans in parafin. You’d have to make sure that your storage method for the cans doesn’t tear a hole in the plastic, but otherwise it seems like that would work.

Probably the easiest method is to simply store the cans in a protective enclosure of some kind. Some sort of large airtight, moisture-proof, container. Some surplus ammo cans are large enough to hold a few #10 cans but I haven’t seen very many that would hold a large amount of them. I suppose the creative among us might get a piece of pvc pipe of correct diameter, cut it to length, glue end caps on, stack a half dozen cans inside, add dessicant, seal it up, and stack ‘em somewhere…but that seems mighty bulky.

If rust is the concern, I can see someone thinking it would be a good idea to treat the cans with some sort of metal preserver…. that seems like a bad idea. Contamination to other foodstuffs would be a hazard, and if you used something like coating the metal with a vegetable oil you’d draw vermin/insects.

Fortunately, as I said, in my environ it appears that can degradation due to environmental concerns isn’t much of an issue. A fairly lax schedule of bi- or tri-annual inspections seems to keep me from having any surprises.

I just use a common office-style date-stamper like you’d find at Staples, and either stamp the boxes or, if using buckets, I stamp the hang tags with the inspection dates.  I suppose I could just write it down with a marker or something, but when you’ve got a huge amount of boxes/tags to mark, it’s a lot faster to just rubber-stamp ‘em.

Obviously, the biggest issue affecting storage of these sorts of materials is the environment they’re stored in. If you live in humid environment, or corrosive environment, youre going to have your hands full finding a way to keep things from degrading. My environment is pretty dry, with very little humidity, so I’m not too concerned…but I do take steps to make sure cans aren’t touching each other, kept high enough off the floor to be safe if theres a pipe break or something, and are protected from being banged around. Between that and the occasional inspection I’ve had pretty good results and haven’t had anything exxhibit any obvious signs of oxidation or decay.

Yeah, it’s a pain in the tuchas to sit down and go through boxes and bins every six or nine months, but it’s a bigger pain to find expensive food ruined. I’d rather do the inspections and put up with a little inconvenience than discover during a Very Bad Time that our food that we were counting on has become inedible.

Those really small cans of food

So it’s a quiet evening, the zombies have been stopped at the bridge you and your buddies blew earlier, the looters are all swinging gently in the breeze, the invading horde of UN troops are off looting Disneyland, those annoying neighbors have been Raptured away, the space aliens are busy stealing the entire planets water supply, and now it’s time for dinner. No problem…even though the power went out a month ago, you’ve got plenty of food stored. Tonight, it’s just you for dinner..the rest of your group are off doing their own thing.

You pull a #10 can of food off the shelf, pull the P38 can opener off the lanyard around your neck, and crack open a can of fruit cocktail. Glad you planned ahead right? But…you can only eat about 1/4 of the contents of the can and now, without refrigeration, you’ve got some leftovers on your hands. In the heat this stuff won’t keep long. If it were five for dinner it wouldn’t be a problem, no leftovers…but tonight it’s just you.

And this is where you realize that while stocking up in quantity was a good idea, when you were pushing that shopping cart through CostCo two years ago, maybe saving a few bucks and buying everything in #10 cans may not have been as good an idea as buying the more expensive, but smaller serving, cans.

This crossed my mind the other day as I was making dinner for the wife. Before I go any further, let’s get some terms and definitions going so we can talk intelligently. A “#10 can” is not a “ten-pound can”. (If it we’re, it would be a 10# can, not #10.) “#10″ is an identifier of the size/type of can. Those big cans you see at CostCo? Those are #10 cans…usually used for things like coffee and restaurant-sized portions. The 15~ oz. cans that you and I are familiar with from our usual grocery shopping are, usually, #300 or #303 sized. Here’s a chart listing common various sizes and their identifying nomenclature.

So, as I said, I was cooking dinner for the wife. Two things you should know about her. First, like a hummingbird, she eats small portions but eats often. Second, she’s not a big fan of eating the same thing twice in a row…like it offends the gods or something. As a result, leftovers tend to wind up just sitting in the fridge longer than they should. Now, to be fair, she’s gotten better about eating leftovers but when I cook or prepare food for her I often have to consider these things. As a result, I usually err on the side of preparing slightly less than I think she might want.

So..the other night….pork chops, instant potatoes, some canned corn with butter. Simple and fast meal. Here’s where it starts getting relevant…I have two different size’s of canned corn tucked away. Same brand, same style, just different sizes and packaging. First is the usual #303 can with about 15 oz., the other was a 8.75 oz. in a pull-top can. The smaller can, though more expensive, winds up being the perfect size and results in no leftovers. The larger can, though cheaper, would result in leftovers which, in a situation where one is without refrigeration or other means of food preservation, means that unless they are consumed shortly after opening will wind up being wasted.

Other than price there is another drawback in the example I’m using. The pull-top cans have the lids pre-scored to make them easy to open. It’s another point of failure that is not present in more traditionally sealed cans that require a can opener. Ever have a can of pop or beer that got dinged just the right way and wound up having the prescored area open up? I have…it hasn’t happened often, but it has happened. On the other hand, in cases like this, the worst case scenario is you lose the contents of that one small can which is still less than what you’d lose from a #10 can that you could only eat half of.

So, the point I’m trying to make is that when buying the canned goods it’s important to keep in mind that a #10 can of vanilla pudding is great for when you’ve got six people over for dinner, but a lousy waste of food when it’s just you, a power failure, and eighty degree summer weather. While I do stockpile #10 cans of some things, I tend to stick to mostly the 15 oz. and smaller cans. (Although I do keep some 28 oz. cans for things like tomatoes.)

I’m sure someone will comment and say “No problem, take the left overs and can them in glass jars. You’ve got lids, bands, and jars, right?” Well..yes. But lets examine this. Where is the advantage of a #10 can over an equivalent amount of food in smaller cans? Mostly in price, right? The #10 can is cheaper than a half dozen cans that hold the same amount. What is the actual savings? Depending on the product, about three or four bucks. So, assume that I would need to can half the contents of a #10 can to keep them from going bad. That means I’d need about three or four pint jars, bands, and lids…which is going to wind up being about the same or more expensive than the price difference between the #10 can and the smaller can. (And that doesn’t include time and fuel costs for the canning process.)

I actually came across these tiny cans at WalMart a few months back and although they were more expensive per oz. than the larger cans, the compact size and ‘single serving’ nature of them made me figure I’d try some out. As it turns out, they seem to fit pretty well into my plans. I’d gotten so wrapped up in the notion of bulk sizes and cost/ounce criteria that I had overlooked the ‘convenience’ aspect of not having to deal with leftovers in a crisis. Does this mean Im phasing out all the other sizes of cans? Absolutely not. It just means that this is yet another variable and possibility in putting together a comprehensive food storage stockpile.

Tagged under “food” because…duh!
Tagged under “logistics” because..well…this is what logistics is about.

Smartphones

Here’s another jewel that pops up from time to time on various preparedness forums – is there a place for a [smartphone/PDA/tablet/laptop] after TEOTWAWKI?

Of course, if someone says ‘yes’ then the short-sighted folks jump in and say ‘what good is a [device] when there’s no network coverage?’ That’s very much like saying ‘what use is your Leatherman Multitool if the knife blade breaks off?’

Let’s assume for a moment that the end of the world, long-term or short-term, is not like one long violent sequel to Mad Max. It isn’t a dawn-to-dusk day filled with manning roadblocks, running gunbattles, and hiding from leather-clad bikers. More likely it’s probably going to have some very small elements of that but otherwise will look a lot like Katrina, post-quake Japan, post-quake Haiti, modern-day Africa, or any other environ where infrastructure has failed and people are generally on their own.

In such an environment it’s pretty likely that your cellphone is not going to be terribly useful for communications, so whats the point of keeping your smartphone around?

Well, the ‘phone’ part may be of limited functionality, but the ‘smart’ part is still there, right? Off the top of my head, I can use my smartphone to translate languages, provide cryptographic functions, work spreadsheets, do math, read documents, take pictures, take video, interface with radio devices, calculate electrical loads, send/interpret Morse messages, provide map functions, etc, etc. And, to be sure, I’m probably leaving out a zillion other relevant and useful functions that Im not even aware of.

But what about the power requirements? Obviously a smartphone has smaller power requirements than a tablet, and a tablet has smaller power requirements than a laptop. Powering a smartphone or recharging it isn’t that difficult these days. There are hand-crank chargers, solar panel setups and spare battery devices that are all made just with the intention of keeping smartphones running.

Is it a necessity? Absolutely not. It’s a luxury of the highest order. However, its a terribly useful luxury. My phone keeps track of my inventory spreadsheets, for example. It’s easy to walk up to the shelf, pull off a half dozen cans of tomatoes, update the spreadsheet right there, and have my inventory kept ‘live’ so I know at a glance what I have.  Could I do it with paper and pen? Sure, but in addition to keeping a live inventory it is also accessible remotely from the wife’s phone or tablet. Meaning that when we trot out to CostCo we can check on our stock levels at home without having to carry around clipboards and papers.

Is it an ‘eggs in one basket’ scenario? Only if you don’t plan to have backups or other options in case you lose the darn thing. Considering the bargain prices for older iTouch’s and similar devices a person could have two or three.

Anything you can do on a smartphone you can do better and bigger on a tablet (which is going to have slightly higher, but acceptable power requirements) and can be run best on a laptop (which will have even higher power requirements). But, the utility value of such smaller devices is hard to discount.

While I have no problem going through the apocalypse without such a device, I would rather have every advantage possible.  (Who wouldn’t? It isnt like there will be awards handed out for the person who survived the worst with the least.) No, there really isn’t too much of a place for it as you’re driving your fuel tanker with Lord Humongous in pursuit. But the end of the world isn’t going to look like that all the time. More often it’s going to look like standing around consolidating and allocating resources, planning consumption schedules, tracking usage patterns, making lots of lists, and that sort of thing.  It’s going to look like logistics. And for those times, having the technology to play ‘what if’ on a spreadsheet, do advanced mathematical gymnastics, take photo documentation, have the equivalent of a six foot stack of reference books, and have it all fit in your cargo pocket is going to be very handy.

No, you’re not doomed if you don’t have one. You can get along just fine without them…many people do. But, to me, it’s a force multiplier…an advantage. And for the sort of future we’re looking at, why wouldn’t you take every advantage you can get? So, to answer the question of whether these devices have a place in preparedness planning, to me the answer is ‘absolutely’. Been there, doing it.

We can has bad can

Did some cooking last night and needed a can of crushed tomatoes. Okay, no problem….I know I’ve got at least a dozen on the shelf in storage. I pull a can off the rack and read the datestamp on it. 2007. Meh, thats not bad. However, I do notice that the lid of the can is a bit convex. Odd. I flip the can over and check the other end…also slightly convex. Hmmm. Fingertip pressure causes the lid to flex. Ok, thats not good. Take it to the kitchen, whip out the can opener and the moment the can is pierced a jet of tomato liquid shoots out. Definitely not good.

As I’m sure you know, one of the signs of spoiled canned food is a bulging can. The bulging on this can was slight, but noticeable. The real clincher was the stuff squirting out once the can was opened…pressure buildup in the can is a dead giveaway. Out of curiosity I stirred up the contents of the can looking for any obvious signs of spoilage. Didnt see any and everything smelled the way it was supposed to. But, there is no way I’m taking a chance on food poisoning over a $2 can of crushed tomatoes. So, out they went. I retrieved another can of crushed tomatoes and carefully examined the lid…slightly concave..good, good. Checked all the other cans and they checked out fine.

Not sure why that one can decided to go south on me. Storage conditions were optimal, can integrity appeared fine, and there didnt seem to be any other possible reasons for the can failing. It just did. Most likely a flaw at the time of packaging/processing.

Moral of the story: bulged cans are a sign that something is wrong. It isn’t worth the headache (and hours of chills and vomiting) to save $2 when you should just really throw the damn thing out. Even if its a false alarm and the contents seem fine, why take that chance? So, always a good idea to carefully examine a can before you open it to make sure that things seem okay.

Durability vs. survivability

Whenever I buy, well, pretty much anything, one of the qualities I look for is durability. If I have to pay $25 for something that is available in a lesser quality at half the price, I expect that difference in price to reflect a pretty hefty increase in useful life of that product. Or, to rephrase it, if I’m going to pay $200 for a flashlight it better last me a good twenty years.

This quality is referred to as ‘durability’….how durable something is. What is durability? It’s how long something will last in it’s expected work capacity. I expect a flashlight to work for ‘x’ amount of time as long as it is used as a flashlight. Used as a hammer, it’s durable work life may be somewhat shortened.

I also like gear that can take the occasional flying drop kick to the jaw and come out smiling. Previously, I associated this quality with durability but as I read more I discover that the term for this is, actually, survivability. What is the difference between the two? And are they exclusive to each other? Can gear have high durability and low survivability? Vice versa?

Survivability is the ability of a system (the term was originally used to describe systems, not items) to survive damage, attacks or failures and still retain a required degree of performance ability. In other words, it has to take a licking and keep on ticking. The best example of survivability is sitting in front of you right this second – the internet. As you know, back when they started flinging electrons around on this thing, the internet (which went under the name of ARPANET, among others) was designed to provide a communications network that would still function even if chunks of it became radioactive debris. It was designed for survivability.

Much of your critical military weapon systems are designed around survivability. Look at some of the armored vehicles and aircraft that come limping home to their bases overseas…helicopters with no oil left in them, humvees running with holes in the block, etc, etc. These are systems that are built with the notion that ‘worst case scenarios’ can’t be allowed to stop you, only slow you down.

So survivability, as it pertains to things like gear and equipment, is the ability of that item to take an amount of abuse, damage, neglect, or wear that is ‘out of the box’ from what the gear was designed to do and still function acceptably. Is survivability directly related to durability? I don’t think so. Durability is about the anticipated wear and tear of a product used the way it was intended. Survivability is about that some product going ‘above and beyond’ and coming out okay. Let’s use tires as an example. You get, what?, 30k miles? 40k? But if you swerve off the pavement and start driving down a dirt road covered in gravel, debris and who knows what else you get significantly shorter life.  And, as Leo Getz reminds us in Lethal Weapon 3, “Bullets aren’t covered under normal road hazards”.  A bullet-resistant tire has great survivability, but you’re probably not going to get the 40k miles out of it. Survivability good, durability …not so much.

So, yes, there’s a difference between survivability and durability. A Venn diagram with one circle showing durability and the other showing survivability would show us that we want that yummy subset where the two overlap…survivability and durability…two great tastes that taste great together. Are such things achievable? Sure…just not always in the things we want at prices we can afford. Simple systems, things like packs and clothing, can be modified to increase survivability and durability (although these are excellent examples of products that embody both) whereas more complex systems…things like electronics, vehicles, etc,…are pretty difficult to make major gains to without being darn near a certified technician in that field.

My point is, when I shop for gear I was confusing survivability with durability and conflating the two…a way of thinking that diminishes the value of each of those qualities. Now that I’m aware of it I need to look at the acquisition of gear and other items from the two standpoints, rather than the previously-conflated one. It’s the difference between buying a radio and asking “How well will this stand up over time” versus “How well will this stand up to being bounced around in a vehicle, hauled over distances, fed fluctuating voltages, knocked off of its stand, and exposed to the elements”.

Interesting way to re-think the value of things.