Link – Apocalyptic Dog Food

I love my dog. He’s a handful, and often a troublemaker, but I will, without remorse or compunction, instantly put my fist through the head of anyone that tries to hurt him. One thing I’ve neglected to do, though, for my little buddy is to set up his doggy bugout-bag and set back some food for him.

A doggy BOB isn’t a silly idea. Think about it..if we have to beat feet and take Mr. Furman with us what are we going to need to make things conducive to travelling with him? First off, we’re gonna need a leash (or two or three), spare collar, copies of his vaccinations, a couple muzzles, water bowls, food bowls, and a few other goodies. If we wind up having to stay in a crowded friends house or something, last thing we need is puppy being unwelcome because he wants to eat someone’s four-year-old….hence, some muzzles. And, really, if I can swing it, get the vet to prescribe some tranquilizers…in a high-stress environment some doggie-downers might come in handy for keeping him calm when we need him to be.

Food, though…I hadn’t really given it much thought. I figured that he’s a dog so he’ll pretty much eat anything we eat (and a lot of stuff we won’t.)  In retrospect, that’s really not a good idea. After all, that means our supply of people food for two has become a supply of people food for two-and-a-half…turning a 12 month supply into a 9.5 month supply.

Here’s a great post about borrowing the canner from the LDS cannery and putting away some premium kibble. Certainly some #10 cans are gonna last quite a while but I think most dogs, when theyre hungry, aren’t really going to turn their noses up at their dog food because it’s stale. There are, after all, critters that are designed to eat roadkill. However, from a storage standpoint, if youre going to store a bulk amount of food you want it stored in a manner that does not promote vermin, insects and other pests. Just heaving a 50# bag of kibble onto the shelf and expecting it to sit there for a few years might not be a terribly good idea unless you like the idea of some really well fed and happy mice setting up shop in that bag. I think I might just go the mylar bag route. I have a stack of them from the cannery and they should hold about the same as a #10 can. I also have quite a few 5-gallon buckets sitting around with GammaSeal lids on them so that might be a way to go as well.

Of course, borrowing the canning machine from the cannery opens up a few other possibilites since I could can..well…anything.

Regardless, I’ve been neglecting Nuke’s post-apocalyptic needs and need to get him squared away.

25 thoughts on “Link – Apocalyptic Dog Food

  1. One of the things that I have heard is that dog food is about 20% filler, while cat food has no filler in it. What I am thinking is:

    1. Would the dog eat cat food (I have seen it)
    2. What are the calories/volume of each. Which ever one is higher, can that so there will be more calories for the pet.

    • Dogs will eat it but it is bad for them. Cat food is higher in fat and protein. If a dog eats too much of it, it can lead to potentially fatal pancreatitis. As for fillers, that depends on the dog food you buy – brands like EVO, Orijen, and Regal either have no grains or are low in them. Dogs do not need grains in their diet.

  2. Putting away some supplies for the dog only makes sense; the dog can be an important resource when times are tough, for hunting and defense. And contrary to what many people think, they cannot eat anything we can. For instance, onions and their kin leeks, garlic, shallots) are dangerous to dogs.

  3. One of the other prepping blogs had an article a few months ago about feeding Fido rice mixed with vegetables and meat/eggs. They suggested eggs because they’re a renewable resource.
    And second on dogs being a great resource in bad times. If nothing else, they make a good burglar alarm.

    • Feed eggs to your dog sometime…let me know what happens. Everyones experience seems to be that when Phydeaux eats eggs he can clear the room out in about five seconds in ‘flat’ulence.

      • My dogs get a raw egg yolk a couple times per week with no problem. I don’t feed them raw whites because that prevents the absorption of certain B vitamins.

  4. We did this 3 years ago and just opened a can and it held up very well – smelled fresh. Our LDS cannery will allow us to borrow a canner, but will not allow on-site canning of LDS foods, just in case some people are thinking of doing that. Check with your local cannery, first.

  5. CZ I’m surprised you or the S.O. don’t have a BOB for Nuke. Get him used to carrying his own supplies. (Trust me, they do not take to doggie backpacks without serious work)

    1. Doggie first aid kit: Benadryl, infant socks, a roll of medicinal tape (dual use for humans) to tape socks to fur (otherwise the socks get shook, torn off), Betadine, vitamins, Q-tips, supply of flea and tick meds. 2 Pounds

    2. Water bottles (filled). Rain gear. 3 pounds

    3. Ziplock bag of food, bag of rice. 4-6 pounds

    4. Bennies: One box of ammo, one jar of Bouillon, multiple Iodine tablets to sterilize his or her water. Again, puppy carries things you can use too.

    That’s between 11-13 pounds of dog stuff / gear that your 80 pound Bioweapon can carry in his doggie backpack. Means less for you to hump.

    All dogs have idiosyncracies insofar as food. Boxers (I have one) have notoriously sensitive stomaches. No dog should be fed chocolate or peanuts. (“Creamy” Peanut Butter is ok).

  6. ?!

    Neglecting provisions for the Wunderhund?

    Bad, bad Zero. No biscuit!

    Lacking suitable dogspace, I have only a poorly trained attack cat, but for the furwench, a year’s canned goods fits in two banker’s boxes and prices out under $80.

  7. For long term storage, I would recommend white rice as a base for homemade dog food. Add some meat chunks, broth, carrots, etc and you have some good dog food.

    Plus rice can be people food, it’s cheap and it last forever.

  8. What does one of those canners cost? Many years ago, one of the nearby malls had a kiosk during the holidays that would “can” your gifts. It was a hand-cranked unit. My vague recollection was it reminded me of a sausage grinder. No idea how well it actually sealed a can, but I had them do a few gifts for me. It looked like a regular can when they were done cranking.
    Now I’m thinking it should be done in a glovebox, with a vacuum system. Hhmmm, I think I’m lacking enough knowledge on the subject to take it any further. May have to do some research.

    I’m thinking it might be useful for rough duty storage of parts and small equipment. Would there be a benefit over plastic buckets, besides size? The 5 gal pail seems to be the default for storage, but that is rather large for lots of things you might need to store. One size fits all, sometimes doesn’t.

  9. I think the problem you will find is that commercial dog food is mostly filler. Lots of cereal and other stuff a dog wouldn’t normally choose to eat. Consider making your own dog food. I suspect that one possible side effect of this would be a smaller amount of poo generated. I think there would be some benefits if this was the case. Tactical, transport, and possible health improvements. Might not cost any more than the crap they sell over the counter, either.
    If you try this, bear in mind the dog will be expecting the usual portion sizes (full bowl, etc). It will take time to accustom him to a change to a high density food.
    Also look to see if you can compress his food for smaller storage.

  10. Wow, I am reading all these comments about feeding your dogs eggs and I am surprised! We have no problems with this, although we rararely feed cooked eggs, just raw yolks. My dogs are on a raw diet, with occasional supplementation with a high-quality, grain free dog food (EVO brand). Our holistic vet says that she finds that dogs who have been on this type of diet for a while have an easier time digesting things. Don’t know if that’s the difference. Whatever you feed your pets, make sure that none of the ingredients are sourced from China – remember the melamine contamination a few years ago?

  11. Re: dog food, there are a number of websites with info on contents. When my GSD was alive I used to help get her past some severe food allergies. That website led me to the Orijen brand and it made a big difference in her quality of life. The site opened my eyes about how manufacturers rig ingredient lists and use marketing tactics to sell some pretty awful stuff to pet owners. The site is ad-free and not endorsed or funded by any dog food manufacturer.

  12. I keep my dog food in buckets with gamma seal lids and open mylar bags. That way I can keep about 2 months work of food for my dogs. For a 72 hour bag, I’ve thought about using some mylar to make dog-MREs.

  13. I use a teaspoon of olive oil on kibble that might be stale. In fact, I have to divide it between 50# plus Airedale Terriers. They love the stuff. Also buy bulk oatmeal after cooking it before you add milk or sugar leave a teaspoon without anything.
    I use that nightly but it is cold from refrigerator.

  14. As an aside

    CZ posts:

    Mayan End of the World – 4 responses

    Walking Dead – 8 Responses

    Problems with computers when purchasing handguns on Black Friday – 9 responses

    Article about dog – 18 responses and counting

    • You should see the Google Analytics data for the blog. I can write a short three-line post with a link or graphic and it will get five times the hits of a lengthy, well-researched post that is chock full of pictures. But, everyone with a dog can relate to this subject so I suspect thats where the responses are coming from. Good to know folks love their dog-buddies this much. Gives me a sliver of hope for humanity.

  15. Thanks for the link love…in re: quality of food – I could have spent $150 for their usual feed to can that much food or the given $50. For me, it was more about having ANYTHING to feed them that wasn’t from our stores and would not be a burden on others. We have two very large dogs (125 and 145) so for us it is necessary to be reasonable when stocking that much food.

    I assume that in a survival situation that they would be on half rations and getting scraps from kills.

    I did consider the 5 gal bucket/Gamma lid option but have found with other stores (flour) that it has a shorter life by far than in the can – my 2 and 3 yr old flour is definitely fading in quality – good enough for bad time bread but definitely at its end. Too, I wanted something rodent proof as I intend to store some away from home…that storage was a really important issue, too.

  16. We have a labrador and have run the gamut of high end dog foods trying to find one she would even eat that did not cause horrific gas or vomiting. This summer when I was busy in the garden, she let me know what she liked. Since then she has been eating carrots, pumpkin or yams, green beans or peas, tomatos along with chicken, beef, or a small amount of pork (we don’t have access to locally grown). She gets some rice as a basis, and if I’m making a soup or stirfry, I just take her’s out before any no-no’s go in such as peanuts, onion family plants, spices. She has eaten plain cooked oatmeal as a base for her chow also. She used to be ribby and spent a lot of time scratching, along with her upset stomach, but she’s a good weight at 64# and her coat is beautiful. She’s spayed and not fat. Next year, we will be canning deer for the express purpose of feeding her that, and we’ll raise extra chickens to account for the redheadedfourleggedgirl. I can, but I also dehydrate the garden veges (I have ground up the pumpkin and yams and they make the basis of her “meal”), and I’ve precooked long grain rice and oatmeal and dehydrated that which I foodsavered into packets of just add water doggie meals that we take when we road trip. So far, so good. Vet wanted me to buy some more specialty foods that were $4 a can to try or do the allergy testing route, but he doesn’t deny she is a good weight and healthy. It is more work feeding her this way, but I was better off storing more dehydrated food that in the worst case scenario, people could eat, rather than dog food that I didn’t want to imagine eating. This is just “food for thought”.
    Teaching her to pack is on our list of todo’s.

  17. Good discussion! Here is a list of poisonous foods for dogs:
    Chocolate-never, ever. There is no antidote; a vet will try charcoal, but that is no guarantee that it will work.
    ANY artificial sweetener
    Fatty Foods
    Yeast Bread Dough

    And this list is from UC Davis Vet School.

    • From what I understand:

      grapes/raisins, sorbitol : lethal in very small amounts (ie: 7 grapes in a 50 # dog )

      chocolate : it’s more dangerous the darker it is.

Leave a Reply

Your email address will not be published.

You may use these HTML tags and attributes: <a href="" title=""> <abbr title=""> <acronym title=""> <b> <blockquote cite=""> <cite> <code> <del datetime=""> <em> <i> <q cite=""> <strike> <strong>