Another weekend, another five-gallon fuel swap. I dunno how you rotate your fuel, but here’s how we do it around here. All fuel is in the ‘Euro/NATO’-style cans. The fuel is treated with stabilizer. The cans are tagged with the date of storage. The cans are then stored in a safe outdoor location. After more than a year, the fuel is rotated into the vehicle’s regular fill ups. Head to the gas station, put one can of gas in the rig, top off with fresh gas from the pump. The empty can is then refilled at the gas station and fuel stabilizer is added. Back to base, and the can is tagged, dated, and stored.
The details:
‘Euro/NATO’-style cans – Ive used the plastic cans, I’ve used the metal Blitz cans, and I’ve uses the NATO-style cans. (I haven’t used the Scepter plastic cans but I’m really leaning away from plastic fuel containers.) In my experience, the NATO cans are the best choice. I dont bother using a spout with them, I paracord a $2 gas funnel to each can. The NATO cans get painted every so often if theres signs of rust or chips in the paint. The cans seal up tight, are easy to handle, and used to be fairly inexpensive. Seems like the source these days is off-road/expedition specialty websites. The cans aren’t cheap, but whats it worth to you to have gasoline in a crisis?
Stabilizer – Two names top the chart: Stabil and PRI-G. I went with PRI-G after reading some reviews and first-hand reports. I have stored gas with the PRI-G stabilizer for almost two years and when that gas was finally used I noticed no change in vehicle performance. Stabil is easier to find, but for my money I’ll make the extra effort and get the PRI -G. Buy the big jug that treats 512 gallons. Why? Sometimes this stuff can be hard to find (like after their facility in La. got wiped out in Hurricane Katrina, so have enough on hand that you dont need to buy any for a few years.
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Date tagging – Here’s the post about it. TL;DR? I cut a square from an empty pop can, scrive the date on it, and paracord it to the gas can. Since the tag is metal, and the date is carved into the metal, there is no problem with the date tag disintegrating or becoming illegible due to weather and sun.
If you don’t store extra fuel and don’t know how to go about it, this might be useful to you. It may not be the best way, but it’s how we do it around here and it seems to have worked pretty well so far. So: buy the good quality cans, fill with fuel, treat with stabilizer, date the cans, store them out of the weather (in a corner of your yard in a ‘doghouse’ structure would work great, and rotate with fresh gas when you fill your vehicle.)
As I said, I haven’t been as diligent as I should about gas rotation and the gas in storage was around two years old….but treated and stored properly it appears to perform just fine. When we need to outrun the zombies, or buy gas at 3AM when all the stations are closed, we’ll have that extremely valuable resource available to us.
And, before I forget, I want to repost something I think is extremely important about fuel rotation in a non-crisis:
Seriously, man….there should never be an empty gas can in your world.
John, you posted the order of refill the tank and then add stabilizer. It should be the other way around – add stabilizer to the can and then refill it – that ensures that the stabilizer is well mixed with the fuel as a result of the fuel fill swirling the contexts and mixing is up well.
Have you heard the suggestion that you should do this in winter to ensure that you get the cold-start aids that are part of the winter mix? I normally store diesel, so haven’t paid much attention to storing gas, but this winter I’ll be storing gas for the first time…
P.s. I use the Scepter cans. I used to use NATO cans when offloading and while they have their points (you listed most) I switched to Scepter. They have been great. I can lay them on their side, and abuse them and they don’t leak.
Youre right. NowadaysI put the stabilizer in first and then add gas so the stabilizer gets thoroughly mixed in.
Gas (in my part of the country anyways) is usually cheaper in the winter also.
CZ, have you run into any issues using summer formula gas during a sub zero cold spell?
Steelheart
None that I’ve noticed. However, I usually add 1/4 tank stored gas to 3/4 tank fresh gas when I do rotations…the majority of the blend would be a winter blend if Im doing the rotation in the winter.
I have a goodly number of cans filled, stabilized and ready to go. Then I have my “reservoir” of 115 gallons in my boat’s fuel tank, which I try to keep topped off when it gets 25 gallons down. I do that for two reasons. One- to always have an almost full tank. Two- so I don’t have to think about filling the tank and paying for 90 gallons at one time.
But I DO have two empty 5 gallon cans in my car, in addition to all the above. These cans are brand new and have never been filled. Still got the tags on them. My thoughts are that if the balloon goes up and I can react on a timely basis, I’ll top off the car and fill the cans.
Down here in South Texas, metal gas cans rust really bad (from the inside, dont ask me how? and chunks of rust flake off) We have to use plastic cans.
The plastic cans work great for me. I fill them up with winter mix fuel in December, add fuel stablizer (Sta Bil) and if I dont have to use them for a hurricane event, one year later I use the fuel then refill. I add masking tape onto the side of the plastic can with the month and year of refill (example 12/11) after another refill, I follow the same procedure.
I am fortunate enough to have a station the sells fuel with “No Ethanol” nearby and thats what I always use.
On a side note, I live within 50 miles of six refineries and 60 miles from the Eagle Ford shale oil play. I got a one gallon jug of virgin Eagle Ford Crude in my garage curtesy of a friend who got it right off the tap of an Eagle Ford well (No Muslim oil here)